Before	After

Very simple install. With the car on the ground, remove the existing nuts, bolt on the new brace, torque the brackets first then the bar. Torque to 18lb/ft.
I have not driven the car yet... details to follow.

More pics:
 

A:It is possible to find the region_id using htmldb_application.g_plug_id (plugs are regions) via g_plug_name

This code will show the approach:

begin
  htp.tableOpen;
  htp.tableRowOpen;
  htp.tableHeader('region_id');
  htp.tableHeader('region_name');
  htp.tableRowClose;
  for i in 1.. htmldb_application.g_plug_id.COUNT loop
    htp.tableRowOpen;
      htp.tableData(htmldb_application.g_plug_id(i));
      htp.tableData(htmldb_application.g_plug_name(i));
    htp.tableRowClose;
  end loop;
  htp.tableClose;
end;

The product works great, it does exactly what it says and it doesn't hurt the paint. No scratches, no problems with water. It creates a film similar to static cling decals, which is then easy to just peal off.

Prepping the car for the spray though did take a while. It was a time consuming process with the complicated contours of the front fascia of the M Coupe.

Then to make matters worse, I ran out of the product before finishing up!! Check out the pics of the before and after with 1/3 of the front still not covered. Hard to tell on the picture below, but the left side of the picture (driver side) you can see it's still not completely covered as is the bottom spoiler/air splitter.

Oh well, I guess some protection is better than none.

Before	After

You'll need a piece of electrical wire (10/15 cm) to serve as a jumper wire.

According to Patrick Farrel, a BMW master tech working at a dealer in MD, you should always use a fused jumper wire.

First, locate de diagnostic socket, at the engine compartment. There are two different types: up to 1987, it's located near the intake manifold, and has a red cap:

After 1987, you have to find a big round black plastic socket, with a cap held by a plastic strap, located near the oil dipstick (M20 engines) or near the firewall, driver's side (M40 engines):

Pull the cap (early connector), or unscrew it (late connector), and you'll see a number of connectors, depending of the type of plug (see the diagrams below).

 

• According to the type of plug on your car, locate the right connectors, marked red in the diagrams;
• Use the jumper wire to connect them together;
• Turn the key to ON position, without starting the car;
• When the 5 LED's in the dash light up (3/4 seconds), turn off the key. If you keep the ignition on, another 6/7 seconds, after the LED's appear, you'll perform an inspection reset, too.
• Disconnect the jumper wire.

Be Carefull! Make sure you jump the right connectors! The best way to follow the diagram for the late type connector is to match its center circle cut (that looks like a pacman :o)) with the one in your car. The earlier one has a flat side, so it's easier to follow.

If you can't reset the lights, or if they reset and return after a few days, you probably have to replace the SI board batteries.

I ran into this nifty Tire Size Calculator and I was able to answer the question.
Just go to this link and enter tires sizes to compare:
http://www.powerdog.com/tiresize.cgi

Here are the sizes I use, in the following order; stock (snow tires), track and street
195/65/14
205/50/15
215/40/17

I was glad to see that the big 17 inch wheels are apparently 0.9% smaller in diameter than the stock size. Meaning they pretty much maintain the ratio. According to the calculator, for every 10000mi (with the 14") the odometer would reflect 10088mi with the 17"

Now, that said, I still know my 17 inch are just too heavy a wheel for the little E30.
Here are my weights (lbs) in the same order:
Bottle caps & tires 31
Kosei wheels & tires 35.2
Mille Miglia wheels & tires 45.2

Another Java tire size calculator:
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

Here is a picture taken with the Treo 600:

Interestingly enough, I know know that the Title is made of the first 30 characters.

[Posted with my trusty Treo with HBlogger]

However, some Zebra printers require their own escape codes and will not print plain ASCII input.
Expanding on the foobar solution (Printing Barcodes from Oracle Apps), I have created zfoobar.

The M42 timing chain is tensioned by a chain guide pushed against the chain by a hydraulic tensioner. A weak or frozen tensioner can cause timing chain noise. Replacement of the tensioner takes about ten minutes and requires only a 19 mm socket wrench.

This is my reference page that I used to host on my personal Twiki: Oracle Web Applications
You'll find quite a few code examples that without much effort can be ran anywhere.